VOICE 180
Akiko Gulkison, owner, and Ko Tanimizu, chef
of
COFU Chinatown
Photography - HIRO Interview - MINA
"Our goal is to make COFU a new destination for next-generation sushi, and one day, have vegetable sushi recognized as a cultural heritage."
The moment you open the door to COFU Chinatown, a lively "Irasshaimase!" greets you. Owner Akiko, who pioneered vegan sushi with COFU Anderson in 2021, designed the space to make guests feel as if they had stepped into a different country.
At her new Chinatown location (Gore and Pender, opened July), Akiko hosts an intimate and exquisite 18-course vegetable sushi Omakase experience. Omakase translates to "I'll leave it up to you," and with 16 years of experience in Japan, Master Chef KO doesn't disappoint. With calm precision, he transforms humble vegetables into captivating, artful sushi.
For those accustomed to traditional sushi, a plant-based omakase is a journey of discovery. At first, you might find yourself making comparisons: "Is this potato meant to be the negitoro?" But as the courses unfold, you realize this is something entirely new - creative sushi where vegetables take the spotlight. Each ingredient, familiar or rare, is elevated to reveal unexpected flavours, textures, and aromas. It is a cuisine that awakens the senses and imagination alike, leaving you eager to see what comes next.
The beauty of the COFU experience extends far beyond the sushi. Each dish, presented on stunning Japanese ceramics, feels like a small cultural experience. The pairing of authentic sake, thoughtfully introduced by the general manager, deepens the experience. The meal concludes with delicate Japanese sweets and freshly whisked Uji matcha, prepared right before your eyes. Every detail reflects a deep sense of care, which is the essence of Japanese hospitality. When Akiko gently asks, "Is the temperature to your liking?" as she serves the opening soup, it feels like a small yet profound gesture, one that symbolizes the heart of the Japanese spirit and aesthetics.
While the omakase is the purest expression of COFU's philosophy, the restaurant offers much more. A separate casual dining space serves an à la carte menu of sushi, ramen, and layered oju boxes. By day, the café HUSH Coffee (open 9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.) offers vegan imagawayaki pastries with coffee and matcha drinks. There is also a Happy Hour featuring rare Japanese sake flights. Though the Omakase stands out as an intimate experience. It is offered in two seatings (5:45 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.) and strictly limited to just eight guests per night. The early seating is our personal favorite as the evening light softens over Chinatown, and the atmosphere gently transforms, inviting you to savor the space itself.
In a neighbourhood known for its acclaimed destination restaurants, COFU Chinatown sets a bold new standard. If someone asks where to find authentic Japanese creativity and spirit in Vancouver, the answer is simple: COFU Chinatown.
VOICE (V): What inspired you to open COFU Chinatown?
Akiko(A): In Vancouver, sushi still mostly means fish. I had always wanted to expand people's experience of the depth and beauty of vegetables. With the first COFU, I felt we had only begun to explore what a plant-based restaurant could be, and there was still so much potential.
When I started thinking about a second location, I wanted to create something truly original, something only I could do, not limited to sushi, but built around creativity itself. With the pandemic behind us, I wanted to bring back the intimacy of the sushi counter, allowing guests to experience the craft up close. Japanese hospitality is something that resonates anywhere in the world, and I wanted that to be our strength. I hope that people will one day say, 'Let's go for vegan sushi,' in the same manner they might say, 'Let's go for French tonight.' I aim to blur the boundaries between vegan and non-vegan dining, sharing good food.
V: What is the defining feature of the new location?
A: The space itself. I wanted to create a counter-style setting where guests can enjoy the atmosphere - watching each piece being crafted right in front of them, pairing it with sake or wine, and feeling that intimate connection between chef and guest. During the day, it is more of a café with light meals, but in the evening, the mood completely transforms with our omakase course.
Most of our produce comes from local farms that grow Japanese organic vegetables. We use Japanese varieties like myoga, shiso, and shishito, which are all grown locally in BC. It is impressive how much we can find. Since we are in Chinatown, I would also love to start incorporating Japanese-style dried ingredients in the future.
Ultimately, the space itself embodies the spirit and aesthetics of Japan. Details like bonsai and Japanese tableware allow guests to experience the culture, not just the flavours.
Chef Ko (K): Another appealing feature is the space`s versatility, which allows guests to tailor their dining experience to any occasion. One can visit the casual dining area for lunch and later reserve the intimate Omakase counter for special celebrations.
V: Chef KO, what inspired you to become a sushi chef?
K: When I went to a sushi restaurant with my family, I was struck by how cool the chefs looked behind the counter. I was also fascinated by how something made from just rice, wasabi, and soy sauce could become such a refined dish.
As an apprentice, you only get to practice each type of fish once a year. For example, with anago (sea eel), you can only train during the summer when in season, and then wait until the following summer to try again. It takes years to master even one ingredient.
Now that I have been a sushi chef for 16 years, I still feel I have to keep learning and evolving. It is a journey with no end.
V: What do you find most challenging about making sushi in Canada?
K: Presentation, I think. In Japan, simplicity often speaks for itself. It is the flavour that matters most. But here, people tend to expect something more visually striking, something that catches the eye. So while I keep that in mind, I try to balance the visual impact with the traditional flavours of Edomae-style sushi. Another interesting challenge is adapting local Canadian vegetables in a Japanese way. It really expands the possibilities of plant-based sushi. I often ask myself, "How can I make this vegetable harmonize with vinegared rice?" And every time, new ideas come to life. Possibility is endless.
V: What did you bring from Japan that you consider essential?
K: My knives and chopsticks. I believe the precision and delicacy of Japanese cuisine start with the knife. It is hard to rival the variety and quality you find in Japanese knives. Their reputation for excellence in craftsmanship is widely recognized. I even brought the knife I have been using for the past 16 years. It is more than a tool; it represents my journey and history as a sushi chef.
V: How do you come up with the menu?
A: The chef and I create it together. The appetizer menu changes every three months, and we try to break away from fixed ideas to offer what we call `punk sushi.`
Since we have such amazing vegetables, I want people to enjoy sushi where the vegetables are the main attraction, not just a substitute for fish. We are always experimenting and are looking to maximize our use of fruit-based sushi this fall season.
V: What kind of customers do you get?
A: Unlike the casual vibe of the original COFU, the second location starts at around $130, so we expected a completely different crowd. But to our delight, during the first three months after opening, most of our guests were actually loyal customers from COFU Anderson. It was both surprising and incredibly heartening to see how many fans we already had. It really made me feel that opening this second location was worth all the effort.
V: Like at your first location, do you have any sustainable initiatives here?
A: Yes, our commitment to reducing food waste remains the same as at COFU Anderson. We use vegetable scraps and unwanted parts in sauces or soups. Sustainability, to me, means creating something that can last, not a business that only works if someone specific is there. I want this to be a model that anyone can continue. To keep the business thriving, embracing change is essential. Doing the same thing year after year is not sustainable, so we live by the philosophy of Evolve & Renovate.
V: What kind of experience do you hope to offer your guests at COFU Chinatown?
A: We aim to create a space where the moment you walk in, it feels like you have stepped into Japan. For those curious about Japan or dreaming of traveling there, we want them to experience a taste of Japan right here in Vancouver. At the same time, we hope our Japanese guests feel a profound sense of comfort and familiarity, as if they have returned home, and that visitors from Japan can enjoy authentic sushi while they are here in Canada.
V: What are your goals for the future?
A: I would love to earn a Michelin star, followed by Green Michelin! I also hope to bring the sushi we have created here in Vancouver back to Japan someday. Locally, my goal is to energize the Chinatown community. We will host future workshops and events, transforming our space into a vibrant hub where people can gather and share unique experiences.
COFU Chinatown
Inspired by Zen philosophy and the artistry of Japanese cuisine, COFU offers an omakase-style experience that flows with the seasons. Set in Vancouver, our vegan menu is a quiet celebration of tradition, simplicity, and natural harmony — from elegant nigiri to thoughtfully crafted plant-based dishes. In addition to our omakase counter, the dining area offers a relaxed setting where guests can explore our plant-based dishes à la carte.
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