WA-BAGEL

VOICE (V): Can you tell us about your journey to becoming a bagel baker?

 

Yukiko (Y): I have always loved bread since I was a child, growing up surrounded by delicious baked goods. My maternal grandfather was a big bread lover; he even brought his oven to his newlywed life, despite being born in the Taisho era (1912-1926). He continued to adore bread until his passing, and when I would bring him a baguette as a souvenir, he could guess where it was from! After graduating from university, I worked in publishing, but I always baked bread in my spare time. Eventually, I realized I wanted to bake every day, which led me to decide to switch careers and become a full-time baker. I didn't go to school; instead, I started training immediately at a bakery in Kyoto. The city has the highest concentration of bakeries in Japan, making it a highly competitive environment with top standards. At that time, a popular bakery called "Brownie Bread & Bagels" was looking for staff, so I contacted them and started working there immediately. Later, I became independent and opened my bagel shop, "Kepobagels", in Kamikitazawa, Tokyo, in 2008.

 

V: Why do you specialize in bagels among all types of bread?

 

Y: A key aspect of bread-making is fermentation. How much you allow the dough to rise is crucial, as it directly affects the texture. At the bakery in Kyoto where I trained, I noticed that the bagel-loving customers who visited were very particular about texture. I believe the unique characteristic of bagels lies in this important trait.

I have always had a strong preference for the texture of food; I especially love gummies and the slightly firmer consistency of boiled konjac. Because of this, I can relate to bagel enthusiasts. I believe a baker's skill plays a big role in shaping a bread’s texture, and creating delicious bread is about perfecting that texture through practice. That's why I wanted to focus on making bagels that reflect these skills. Also, I have long- loved the bagel culture of New York and have traveled there multiple times for research. However, I didn't want to replicate what already exists; I aimed to create bagels that reflect my style, which is how the "WA-BAGEL" concept was born.

 

V: What are the key characteristics of the bagels you are particular about?

 

Y: The texture is non-negotiable for me! I can't compromise on this at all. I've been told by my staff that I can be a bit "crazy" about it, but that's how much I care. My ideal bagel is a perfect balance between the crust and the inside so that no matter where you bite, you get the same delightful experience.
Because bagels are shaped like a ring, the texture can vary between the seam and the rest of the bagel. The flavour of the seam can often be overlooked, so I focus on improving that aspect to create a bagel that's delicious from every angle - 360 degrees of goodness!
My ideal bagel is one where the outside is firm with a slight "pull" to it, that doesn't tear too easily. Inside, there's a nice bounce with an airiness that gives it a light feel. This texture allows for a pleasant melting sensation in your mouth, that contrasts with the lightly crispy crust. As you chew, the resilience of the inside should be just a bit less than that of the crust. I value that sensation.
The term "mochi-mochi" can mean different things to different people. In English, it often gets simplified to "chewy," which I find doesn't fully capture its essence. It can also be described as having a challenging chew, a "bouncy" quality, and even an "airy" aspect. I want to ensure that when customers try my bagels after hearing this detailed description, that they won't be disappointed. This commitment to texture has been consistent since my days at Kepobagels.

 

V: Has working in Canada thrown you any challenges?

 

Y: Creating traditional Japanese ingredients from scratch is very challenging. For example, when making Sweet Potato & Black Sesame bagels, in Japan, you can easily find sweetened sweet potatoes, but that's not the case here in Canada. I have to start by sourcing sweet potatoes from suppliers. Peeling them and making the sweetened version from scratch is quite a task, but knowing I can create something even more delicious makes it enjoyable.
Also, regarding the mochi we often use at WA-BAGEL, there are pre-made options for confectionery and baking in Japan. Here in Canada, I have to cook the rice, pound it, and shape it by hand. I'm making many ingredients from the ground up. It's not just about bringing over a good image of Japanese culture; I'm always striving to provide high-quality and consistency to our delicious products.

 

V: Have you noticed any differences in the way of working between Japan and Canada?

 

Y: I constantly think about how to make the WA flavours more appealing to Canadian customers. This September, in celebration of WA-BAGEL's first anniversary, I developed a limited-edition flavour. One of my staff suggested, "How about making an Ube bagel?" I wanted to incorporate Japanese elements, so I added mochi and purple sweet potato to create the "Ube Mochi" bagel.

For our regular Kinako Chocolate bagel, I found that just using kinako didn't convey the flavour well, so I started combining it with chocolate. The collaboration of ideas between Canadians and Japanese, blending both cultures, has been amazing.
Overall, I'm truly enjoying my work experience in Canada. I appreciate the close relationships with my staff and the emphasis on work-life balance. For example, when a staff member wanted to take time off for his wife's birthday, that was something I didn't encounter in Japan. Since coming to Canada, I've started to embrace this approach myself. I want to continue valuing this mindset moving forward.

 

V: What is the most popular flavour at WA-BAGEL?

 

Y: Our number one bestseller is the Red Bean & Cream Cheese bagel. It's loved just as much in Canada as it is in Japan! We also have bagel sandwiches that are packed with the creative ideas of our Aburi chefs, and they are delicious and unlike any other bagels in Vancouver. For example, the Pacific sandwich combines smoked salmon with shiso, while the Aburi Veggie sandwich uses homemade tofu hummus. We even incorporate shiitake mushrooms to replicate meat textures, creatively integrating various Japanese elements into our offerings.

 

V: Can you walk us through a typical day for you as a baker?

 

Y: I wake up every morning at 4 a.m., have breakfast, and head to work between 5 and 5:30 a.m. I start by cutting and shaping the dough,  boiling the bagels, adding toppings, and baking them. By the time we open at 8 a.m., I've usually made almost all the varieties in one go. This process is something I repeat throughout the day.
Sometimes, I visit shops I'm interested in or participate in off-site events. Once I finish preparing for the next day, I close the shop around 3 or 4 p.m. and head home. One of my favorite parts of the day is going for a walk with my child afterward. Looking at the ocean and watching the birds is a wonderful way to unwind. I usually have dinner around 6 p.m., and while I sometimes work on the computer afterward, I make sure to go to bed by 9 p.m. This daily routine feels almost the same as it did when I was in Japan.

 

V: What message do you want to share through your bagels?

 

Y: Many people might think their passions can't become their careers, but I'm living proof that you can choose what you love and turn it into your job. Starting from a place of passion, I've gained skills and ventured out into the world. I'm grateful to have a job that supports my family while allowing me to deepen our bonds and create meaningful experiences for my children. Every day, I get to do what I love. This brings me so much happiness. I hope to inspire young bakers in Japan with this message.

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